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Australia. Sydney.

by wolf 0 Comments

Australia. Sydney. What a contrast to Atiu. From a remote island with 400 inhabitants to the largest metropolitan area of Australia! We have scheduled a little more than 2 weeks in the area, but there is not too much time for sightseeing. We need to get organized for our journey through Australia, which includes purchasing a 4WD. But of course we make time for the obligatory. And we have good luck. Vivid Sydney is on. A spectacular light show illuminating the city in creative and beautiful ways.

CBD, Sydney

Central Business District (CBD), Sydney

Harbour Bridge and Opera House, Sydney

Harbour Bridge and Opera House at sunset, Sydney

 

 

 

 

Stormy night at Diamond Head

by wolf 0 Comments

Our first stop approx. 4 hours to the North of Sydney is Diamond Head in Crowdy Bay National Park. During the night serious wind gusts of up to 55km/h keep shaking at our tent. First a massive noise builds up in the treetops and 2 seconds later it feels like the tent gets blown away. We don´t get much sleep. As a small compensation we see Kangaroos literally 5m away from the tent when we crawl out in the morning. As it seems, they also didn´t sleep too well.

Kangaroo at Diamond Head

Tired Kangaroo at Diamond Head

 

Can´t go further east

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Cape Byron – the most easterly point of mainland Australia. There´s also a beautiful lighthouse which was build in 1901. Barrie, a volunteer, enthusiastically explained how lighthouses communicated with ships in bygone times and how male whales sing to attract females.

Cape Byron

Cape Byron

 

The legacy of the “Croc Hunter”

by wolf 0 Comments

I remember watching his “Crocfiles” on TV, when I was a bit younger. Do you remember him? He was the “crazy” guy, who always jumped into the picture, waving wildly with his stretched out hands while handling and explaining all sorts of deadly creatures. And crazy in this case is just another word for totally passionate. From what started as a small reptile park, the wildlife enthusiast Steve Irwin, who was killed in September 2006 by a stingray in the Great Barrier Reef, built Australia Zoo. That´s where his wife Terri and their two kids Bindi and Rob continue his legacy.

Steve Irwin´s family continues his legacy at the Australia Zoo, near Sunshine Coast

Steve Irwin´s family continues his legacy at the Australia Zoo, near Sunshine Coast in Queensland

 

 

Setting over to Fraser

by wolf 0 Comments

We didn´t sleep well tonight. Despite all preparation we feel the excitement of the upcoming adventure of going over to Fraser Island with our car. Fraser Island is the largest sand island in the world. There are no roads, just beaches and some inland tracks, which mostly consist of soft sand. So getting stuck will not be difficult. And enough people had their cars washed away by the ocean – there are some haunting pictures around. So we are already quite awake when the alarm goes off at 4AM. We pack up and head to Inskip point, from where the barge leaves. The other vehicle on the barge is a towing truck – very reassuring.

First barge from Inskip to Hook Point on Fraser Island

First barge from Inskip to Hook Point on Fraser Island

Turning our Landcruiser into a Sandcruiser

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Fraser Island. One reason for us having taken the first barge at 6AM was to have enough driving time on both sides of low-tide. Being familiar with the tidal times (amongst other things) is crucial, as some beach passages may otherwise be impassable. From Hook Point we drive up the Eastern Beach for approx. 2 hours, get to witness an amazing sunrise, cross several creeks, stop alongside the renowned shipwreck Maheno and safely make it to our campsite (Cathedrals on Fraser).

Driving up the Eastern Beach (75-mile-beach), Fraser Island

Driving up the Eastern Beach (75-mile-beach), Fraser Island

 

 

 

Maheno shipwreck

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The Maheno had already been put out of service as an ocean liner and had been sold for scrapping purposes to a Japanese company. When the ship was towed from Sydney to Japan, the towing ship lost its haul during a winter-cyclone in July 1935. The Maheno then stranded along the Eastern Beach of Fraser Island. After that, no one wanted the ship anymore. So its remainders can still be witnessed today.

Wreck of the Maheno, stranded in July 1935, Fraser Island

Wreck of the Maheno, stranded in July 1935, Fraser Island

Fraser magic

by wolf 0 Comments

In the last couple of days we were able to do several day trips to see red canyons, yellow pinnacles, colourful sand dunes, endless beaches, an old shipwreck, champagne pools, freshwater lakes, rainforests, large kauri trees, banksia woodlands, eucalyptus forests, Dingo footprints, different bird species, remote inland tracks, creeks, spiders and much more. You are welcome to take a look at the photography section. Not having had internet nor telephone reception the whole time strangely did not bother us at all.

Northern forests scenic drive: where the fire stopped, Fraser Island

Northern forests scenic drive: where the fire stopped, Fraser Island

Gentle giants in Hervey Bay

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Humpback whales travel north to tropical waters to give birth to their young ones. Then they travel all the way back to Antarctica to their feeding grounds. During the return trip they do not eat, except for the young ones. They drink up to 600 litres of solid milk from their mom – every day! The reason for the long and dangerous journey is, that the baby whales would not be able to survive if born in the cold waters of Antarctica.

Tail of a humback whale, Hervey Bay

Tail of a humback whale, Hervey Bay

The Whitsundays and the Great Barrier Reef from an aerial perspective

by wolf 2 Comments

Just outside the town of Airlie Beach is the Whitsunday Airport. From there a scenic flight gives a nice overview over the 74 islets making up the Whitsundays. In 1770 Captain Cook sailed through the passage between the Northern Islands – which is now fittingly named Cook´s passage. It happened to be on the day of Pentecost (also called Whit Sunday). Hence the Whitsundays. The Great Barrier Reef does not need much introduction, I presume. It is rated to be the largest living being in the world, a World Heritage Site and of course breathtaking.

Whitsunday Islands, scenic flight

Whitsunday Islands, scenic flight

Great Barrier Reef, scenic flight

Great Barrier Reef, scenic flight

 

 

Cape Tribulation

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Cape Tribulation in the Daintree NP received its current name from Cpt James Cook. In the year 1770 he sailed up the East Coast of Australia to take possession of the land for the British Crown, otherwise the Dutch might have kept it. It is here where he hit a reef and almost sank his ship, the Endeavour. Hence the name Cape Tribulation. With a bit of good luck – the coral he had hit broke off and functioned as a plug – and hard work they were able to save the ship and complete their mission.

Cape Tribulation, named by Cpt Cook after running his ship on a coral reef here, Daintree National Park

Cape Tribulation, named by Cpt Cook after running his ship on a coral reef here, Daintree National Park

Croc Dundee´s Territory: Kakadu National Park

by wolf 2 Comments

Parts of the movie “Crocodile Dundee” were shot here at Kakadu. Does anybody remember it? Back then the area was more known for its Uranium that is still mined here. But by now it is also a National Park with more than 19.000 square km (approx. 1/2 the size of Switzerland) and dual World Heritage status – for its natural and cultural aspects. Well, we can´t wait to discover some of it!

Kakadu National Park, Southern Entrance

Kakadu National Park, Southern Entrance

Jim Jim Falls – just without the Falls

by wolf 0 Comments

One of our first sightseeing tours in Kakadu was taking the 4WD track to the popular Jim Jim Falls. Usually, the water falls down here up to 200m from the surrounding Arnhem Land Plateau. Not so in the dry season, which we otherwise appreciate for the better driving conditions. The walk is short but strenuous, as it includes climbing over large rocks for most of the time. Highlight: A swim in the plunge pool – which still holds deep waters even during the dry season!

View of the (dry) Jim Jim Falls and the rock walls of the Arnhem Plateau, Kakadu NP

View of the (dry) Jim Jim Falls and the rock walls of the Arnhem Plateau, Kakadu NP

 

Yellow Water – not River!!

by wolf 0 Comments

When thousands of (non indigenous) Buffalo walked into the wetlands of Kakadu, they stirred up mud and the water started to look murky and yellow. Hence the name Yellow Water. Not to be confused with the Yellow River in China. Apart from the name, nothing is really yellow. Most of the Buffalo were killed off to protect the natural ecosystem. The Yellow Water region boasts an incredible flora and fauna and is an absolute highlight of the Kakadu NP! Don´t go to Kakadu without visiting this area!!

Yawning "Saltie", Kakadu NP

Yawning “Saltie” (Salt Water Crocodile), Yellow Water Region, Kakadu NP

Ancient rock art – mystical and practical

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Kakadu National Park also features many ancient art sites. Apart from drawing mystical figures from their dream time culture, the Aborigines also did a lot of practical and straightforward painting, e.g. to educate their children about possible food sources. Preferred drawing material was and is ochre, which plays an important part in Aboriginal culture (also for body paintings).

Aboriginal paintings showing Barramundi fish

Aboriginal rock art displaying Barramundi, Ubirr Rock, Kakadu NP

Fish & Chips in Darwin

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Darwin, capital city of the Northern Territory. Due to the few inhabitants, everything is a bit more relaxed around here. Following through on a tip we had received while travelling, we went to the Stokes Hill Wharf to indulge in delicious Fish (Barramundi) & Chips. The area also offers something for the historically interested, as it was targeted during Japanese bombings raids on Australia during WW2.

Fish & Chips at the Stokes Hill Wharf, Darwin

Fish & Chips at the Stokes Hill Wharf, Darwin

Waterfalls and Termite Mounds: Litchfield!

by wolf 0 Comments

A nice day trip from Darwin! Litchfield National Park offers several water falls, that allow for a refreshing swim in their basin (please see photography section). It is also home to different types of termites, which are truly fascinating architects . Below you can see a mound typical for the Magnetic Termite. To control temperature, the narrow side of the mound is perfectly aligned from East to West, leaving the wide sides to face north (always sunny and warm) and south (always shady and cool). The result looks a bit like a tombstone.

Magnetic Termite Mounds, Litchfield NP

Magnetic Termite Mounds, Litchfield NP

Devils Marbles

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The Aborigines belief, that the mystical dream time figure of the rainbow serpent laid its eggs here. Geologists get equally excited at this seemingly random accumulation of massive round stones. It is not too difficult to understand why marbles feature in the English name of the site.

Fascinating geology at Devils Marb les, Northern Territory

Fascinating geology at Devils Marbles, Northern Territory

“The Alice”

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Also known as Alice Springs – welcome to the main hub of the Red Centre. After driving for hours and hours through beautiful but non-inhabited Outback landscapes, you are suddenly in Alice Springs. For us it was the place to have our exhaust fixed, which started to make beautiful but illegal noises. And of course, being in Alice, you also would go out to explore the nearby MacDonnell Ranges – which is exactly what we did.

Sunset over Alice Springs and the MacDonnell Ranges

Sunset over Alice Springs and the MacDonnell Ranges from ANZAC Hill

Blooming deserts!

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Ok, we simply were lucky! As it had rained quite a bit in the Red Centre in the weeks prior to our arrival – ending a 7 year draught – wild flowers where in abundance everywhere! My wife thought, she was in the largest flower shop on Planet Earth. No picture can replace the impression of standing on the side of a lonesome, red, dusty road and seeing flowers in all directions until the horizon.

Wild flowers in the Red Centre after heavy rainfalls

Wild flowers in the Red Centre, along Ernest Giles Road

Lonesome travelling on Outback roads in the Northern Territory

Lonesome travelling on Outback roads in the Northern Territory

Kings Canyon

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Coming from Alice Springs and going to Uluru, it would be a pity to not visit Kings Canyon! The 6km rim walk is an experience we can highly recommend. Allow 4 hours if walking at slow to moderate speed. A healthy fitness level, a hat and lots of water are good companions. On hot days be there early, as the walk gets closed later in the day. First you climb up from the base to the rim and then the track – as the name suggests – takes you along the rim. You even get to see the “Garden of Eden” along the way (see Photography section). At some places you can virtually stand right next to a 300m high drop off. So don´t go too far!

Kings Canyon

View into Kings Canyon

Eroded sandstone landscape, Kings Canyon

Eroded sandstone landscape around the rim of Kings Canyon

Uluru-Kata Tjuta – or Ayers Rock and The Olgas

by wolf

You can have endless discussions which of the two you prefer! Uluru is the largest single monolith on earth. But Kata Tjuta is even higher and consists of multiple rocks. So chose your own favourite! Both have their colour in common, which is caused by rust, as the rocks have a high content of iron. Hence people also call Uluru somewhat affectionately “the big rusty thing”. My favourite were The Olgas, they are a bit less hyped and it was easier to find a spot for my tripod. But back to the main attraction of the park, which is Uluru. There is an ongoing discourse if people should still climb it, which you currently can, but which is in conflict with the traditional law of the Anangu people, the traditional landowners. We decided to refrain from climbing to not cause any offence and enjoyed the views from the ground.

Kata Tjuta (Olgas) at sunset

Kata Tjuta (Olgas) at sunset, Uluru-Kata Tjuta NP

 

Ayers Rock (Uluru), Uluru-Kata Tjuta NP

Uluru (Ayers Rock), Uluru-Kata Tjuta NP

Scienceworks Melbourne

by wolf 7 Comments

Scienceworks in Melbourne is a great place for the young to discover (and for the grown-ups to re-discover) science. E.g. in the lightning room, where a huge Tesla coil is used to create real lightning. It´s part of a 30-minute live show on electricity. The show delivers a great reminder what happens if lightning strikes an aeroplane, a car, a bus shed or a golf player. Also nice: invent your own mobility concept for the future and have it displayed on a large screen! And that´s just two out of many things.

Science Works, Melbourne

Scienceworks, Melbourne

 

Royal Melbourne Moonlight Cinema

by wolf 0 Comments

During the summer months, the Royal Melbourne Botanical Garden on some late evenings allows itself to be transferred into a huge open air cinema. You can upgrade your experience by renting a bean bag to lounge even more comfortably on the grass, while enjoying snacks and drinks and the movie – if it´s not “Allied”. That was the only drawback of an otherwise wonderful evening with friends at a stunning location! So when you come to Melbourne in the summer months, you might want to google “Moonlight Cinema”.

Hayday!

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When you have friends that are farmers, it gives you options. Like the chance to get an extra workout. We volunteered to help bring in the hay – and yeah, no need to pay for any fitness studio! That being said, it was endless fun! Probably also, because we do not have to do it every year. On top of it, we learned the difference between hay and straw (straw is usually cut after the crop has been harvested of its stems).

Nice, fresh hay – oh happy cows!

The alternative for people who can´t surf: boogie boarding

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Torquay usually attracts lots of surfers to famous Bells Beach. But you don´t have to be a surfer to enjoy Torquay. Just get a boogie board and you don´t have to worry about falling of any surfboard. Just enjoy the ride! Anything else required? Ah yes, sunshine and waves. The former was supplied by the Australian summer, the latter by Jan Juc Beach.

Boogie boarding fun, Jan Juc Beach near Torquay

 

The 12 Apostles, or rather the remaining 8

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The 12 Apostles along the Great Ocean Road was one of those places we definitely wanted to see! The name of the place obviously is from a time, when all 12 where still around, 4 have collapsed since and I wouldn´t be surprised if more are to disappear in the future. Anyway, what´s left is still impressive! Amazing what beauty can be created by erosion!

At the 12 Apostles, Port Campbell NP, Great Ocean Road